Every self-respecting pilgrim comes back with his shell hanging and his St. James cake under his arm. The former is worn by Benedict XVI on the papal coat of arms; we do not know if the latter is in his luggage. It was his first time on pilgrimage. Before, on the plane he had focused the trip, as he usually does. He spoke of "positive secularism", as opposed to negative secularism, the struggle between politics and religion. This is something profoundly human, and must have its own place in public life. Not confrontation, but meeting. Religion must be open to society, and society must make room for religion.

The pope did everything there: he greeted princes and politicians, gave speeches, listened to bagpipers, celebrated mass, blessed children and shook many hands. It is his mission statement as a shepherd. Miracle: it did not rain in Santiago. People would have been singing in the rain. In bad weather... Shouting, singing, applause. What do they see in the Pope? Peter, the bishop of Rome, a representative of Jesus Christ. That is why they are there and listen to him. The Pope spoke of the Church, "God's embrace of all peoples"; of the need to be pilgrims: of the exodus, of going out of oneself to go towards God and to meet others.

And of truth and freedom: they are not only two words that rhyme with each other, but the one empowers the other. Truth and freedom are like the roots and branches of the same tree. In the afternoon, mass at place del Obradoiro - stone and people - with music by Bach, Mozart and Haendel. Art also brings us closer to God. First of all, the Pope spoke of Jesus Christ, "the greatest treasure for our contemporaries". And then of our old continent. "Europe must open itself to God," to Jesus Christ present in his cross and in his light. Then the "logic of love and service" will be present. Moreover, we need that truth and beauty, forgiveness and redemption. God is the best friend of our freedom. Benedict XVI went on pilgrimage: he went, he saw and he spoke. Surely now he is homesick.